Is there an optimum for clutch adjustment? ... thing and tried driving it with both the new clutch stop and the OEM stop twice and there is NO difference in how the clutch engages and how the gears shift. Thanks for help all, and especially xluben for confirming that I could rotate the pushrod. I am not use to having the clutch this high. Insufficient clutch pedal give: A hard clutch can also play a role in insufficient clutch pedal give. The clutch should at least have a two-inch “give” before it engages. The hardest part with aging or slipping clutches is that you have to remember what it felt like when it was new. Got everything out and away from the car and took it for a drive. A clutch that engages right at the end when your foot is almost out of the pedal is a "new" or an "worn" clutch? If you haven't seen the stuck flywheel it does have some play to allow the clutch to grab slowly and smoothly, when you put an aftermarket flywheel they removed that, which cause the clutch to engage right away, making the car a stop or go (either you go or you stall). I got my tractor back from the shop where the shifting fork [not sure about nomenclature here] was replaced and noticed right away that the clutch engages fully with in the first inch of pedal travel. Well, when you depress the clutch pedal, it will lift, separating the spinning clutch disk and the flywheel. I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla xrs and living in northern canada. The stop bolt adjustment has the bolt in the center of it's length. Here's what I did one time, it worked OK, firmed the pedal up, but still wasn't as good as buying a whole new system: Use something or somebody to hold the clutch pedal 1/2 to 3/4 of the way depressed (it didn't work well fully depressed for some reason :confused013 Remove pin that holds line into the slave cylinder. It will eventually wear away. I know he said I had too much play in my clutch at that point. How a clutch engages and releases­ When the clutch pedal is pressed, a cable or hydraulic piston pushes on the release fork, which presses the throw-out bearing against the middle of the diaphragm spring. A clutch that gives off a burning smell or won't even make the car move is obviously bad. I've had new clutches that engage right when the pedal starts lifting from the floor and have had new clutches that engage at the very end when the pedal is almost all the way out. If your clutch pedal is doing the latter, as well as acting stiff or failing to disengage the clutch, this is called a hard clutch, and it’s a problem. Then you proceed to shift gears prior to releasing the clutch to re-engage the drivetrain. A clutch can last 50,000 to 100,000 miles (depending on make and model), but clutch service life is greatly affected by stop-and-go city driving, frequent pulling of heavy loads, and "riding the clutch" (resting your foot on the clutch pedal while moving down the road). Yesterday I discovered I can not shift into low range. A. ara35 Passed Driver's Ed. Made the job much easier. I adapted to the clutch right away. The clutch pedal engages right away and at about 20% of the way down it is done. Colin, told me something about the clutch play in my bus while he was here, but i can't recall what it was now. The clutch pedal has a lot of dead space in-between where the clutch actually grabs and the rest is space. 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